E36 M3 GTR - einsteigen, losfahren?

[nominator]

Klasse Story - und dich überholt eh keiner: 1. Weils keiner schafft, an der Rakete vorbei zu kommen und 2. weil er von hinten so grollig ausschaut, dass es eh keiner wagt. Was für eine Rakete!

[MacLeon]

Genial, vielen Dank, Joe!

[ligthning]

[Dr.MTB]

Einfach sau stark

[GG2801]

Joe

[hadi]

Ich freu mich so, wenn der fertig ist!

[Ritzlfix]

Schmacht!

[Micha-K]

Sehr geil Joe, mein voller Respekt und Hochachtung vor dir und deinen Projekten

Du könntest doch, wie bei vielen Rennwagen mit Dogbox, einen Zündunterbrecher am Schalthebel einbauen. Würde das es nicht leichter machen?

Das Singen der geradeverzahnten Getriebe im Innenraum ist echt wahnsinnig. Ich kenne einen der bekam zum Rennende dann oft Zahnschmerzen…

[WUM]

geil!

Gruss


Wum

[sunseeker49]

Sehr schöne Story und tolle Bilder. Danke Joe.

[heintzi]

Ist das geil

[bluestar-Explorer]

Spannendes Projekt & schön, daß es weiter geht! 👍🏼

[Muigaulwurf]

[...]
Du könntest doch, wie bei vielen Rennwagen mit Dogbox, einen Zündunterbrecher am Schalthebel einbauen. Würde das es nicht leichter machen?

[...]

Ich weiß nicht obs das leichter machen würde oder in meinem Nutzungsfall überhaupt etwas bringt, ich kenn das nur bei rein sequentiellen Getrieben, dass man dort beim hochschalten wirklich immer voll am Gas bleiben kann. Vielleicht weiß ja jemand mehr? Rein aus Interesse.

[kurvenfeger]

Ich feier diesen Thread. Absolut großartig!

[Muigaulwurf]

Für die andern vielleicht auch interessant und besser erklärt als von mir:

By William Hewland. July 2000

The following is some info regarding shifting gear and face dog wear. I am in the fortunate position where I have a good amount of knowledge on the subject, as I understand themechanical side and the user (driver) side equally well.

N.B. For successful gear shifting, remember that it is critical to ensure that all mechanica lelements between the drivers hand and the dog faces are in good order and properly set. This includes the gear linkage in the chassis!

Successful up-shifting, (defined as fast and non dog-damaging) will be achieved by fully moving the dog ring as rapidly as possible from one gear to the next, preferably with the engine's driving load removed until the shift is completed. (The opposite is true of a synchromesh gearbox as used in passenger cars, where slow movement helps). It should be remembered that it is not possible to damage the dogs when fully engaged (in gear). The damage can only take place when initiating contact during a shift, (the `danger zone`) therefore this element must be made as short as possible. If a driver moves the gear lever slowly, or if the linkage is not rigid and effective,dog wear will occur. We always recommend lightweight yet solid rod linkage, not cables ideally.
I list below the different methods of up-shifting that are used in racing most commonly. The best at the top, the worst at the bottom:

Automated (semi automated). The movement of the dog ring is powered and the engine is cut /re-instated in a co-ordinated manner. Gear-shifts take milliseconds. This system produces zero dog wear when set up well. It is not applicable to most cars, but it illustrates that speed of shift is a good thing.

Manual with engine cut. This system is almost as good as an automated one as long as thedriver pulls the lever very quickly. Again it is not applicable to many cars, but it illustrates that speed of shift is a good thing. A `cheat` version of this is to shift on the engine rev limiter, which can work well. With this system it is especially important to move the lever ultra fast, otherwise the engine will be reinstated during partial dog engagement, causing damage. The damage canusually be felt by the driver.

Manual.Best method: With no assistance from the engine management, the driver must lift off the throttle sufficiently to allow the dog ring to be pulled out of engagement. He should then stay off the throttle long enough to allow the dog ring to engage with the next gear. In practice, the driver can move the gear lever faster than he can move his foot off and back on to the throttle. Therefore the effective method is to apply load to the gear lever with your hand and then lift the throttle foot off and back on to the pedal as fast as physically possible. In lifting your foot, the loaded gear leverwill almost involuntarily flick to the next gear before the foot is re-applied to the throttle. Another method is to load the gear lever with your hand, stay flat on the throttle and dab theclutch to release the dog ring. The overall effect on the gear shift is similar to the above method, but clutch wear may become a big issue.
The worst method (most destructive and definitely slowest) is to attempt to change gear in a`passenger car / synchromesh` way, i.e. lifting off the throttle, dipping the clutch, moving the gearlever, letting the clutch up and re-instating the throttle. The method causes unnecessary clutchwear, does absolutely nothing to help come out of gear and usually causes dog wear whilst engaging the next gear. This wear is due to several reasons. Firstly, it is impossible for a driver to co-ordinate the complicated sequence of all five physical movements accurately. Consequentlythe engagement dogs often find themselves engaging whilst the throttle is applied. The lever isusually pulled more slowly as it was not pre-loaded, lengthening the `danger zone`.

Successful down-shifting, has similar rules applied regarding speed of shift. Unloading the dogs is done in the opposite manner obviously. Whilst braking, the dogs must be unloaded by either touching the throttle pedal or- my preferred method- by dipping the clutch. However, onesharp dab of clutch or throttle is appropriate per shift. Continued pressure on either will cause dogdamage for different reasons. `Blipping the throttle` just before engagement is advisable if the rev drops between gears are over 1300 rpm, as this will aid engagement and stabilise the car.

TOP TIP for ease of downshifting: Make the downshifts as late as possible in your braking zone(i.e. at lower road speed), because the rev drops between each gear are then lower. So manydrivers make the mistake of downshifting as soon as they begin braking, causing gearbox wear,engine damage and `disruption` to the driving wheels. This is a subject which can be much expanded on, but I feel that these are the basics, which Ihope are of use.

Hewland-–-Gear-Changing-Guidelines

und Micha du hast Recht mit dem Zündunterbrecher, das scheint wohl eine Option zu sein.

[orange]

So geil

Gern mehr, mehr, mehr.....

[orange]

Welchen Gewindedurchmesser hat das Loch im Golfball?

[kurvenfeger]

Ich bewundere jeden, der sowas sicher und schnell fahren kann. Das Video von Struck ist beeindruckend, sieht so selbstverständlich und leicht aus.
Ich glaube die ersten 20tkm würde ich nur blöd auf der Strecke „stehen“, weil ich zu 100% auf den Schaltvorgang fokussiert bin.
Auch aktuell weiß ich eigentlich nie, wie schnell ich bin und in welchem Gang, PDK sei Dank…

[Muigaulwurf]

Welchen Gewindedurchmesser hat das Loch im Golfball?

M14x1,75 - ich bin grad mit jemandem in Kontakt der den Ball für seinen M3 gesucht hat und der denkt, dass es ein Kamei Teil ohne Branding ist.

[heintzi]

Ich kenne den Golfball von früher aus vielen VW.